San Antonio: A River Really Runs Through It

I had to see it for myself. The San Antonio River does indeed run narrowly through the city – for 15 miles! It offers scenic walks, big and small, and is a beautiful complement to America’s 7th most populous city. Kudos to San Antonio for its water-centric urban planning and ingenious civil engineering. According to the American Society of Civil Engineers, “The San Antonio River Walk & Flood Control system has proven extremely successful in controlling San Antonio’s devastating urban flooding problem.” Architect Robert H.H. Hugman envisioned a River Walk where businesses and homes faced the river, “instead of turning their back doors to it.”

I took my first walk along the city’s famed River Walk, brilliantly located below the city’s streets, making it simple to stroll safely along the river. Shops and restaurants are built into a picturesque, pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare for 2.5 miles. A 30-minute boat ride is a relaxing way to pick up some history. There’s lots of it. All you have to do is take a set of stairs from the downtown River Walk to street level, to visit wonderful museums and the 300-year-old Alamo.

Alamo Plaza offers the real deal, including educational exhibits that highlight the courageous soldiers and others (including women) who died and defended the Alamo in 1836 during the Texas Revolution. The Alamo is well preserved, and the grounds are shady and beautifully landscaped.

The Briscoe Museum is a treasure trove of American Western history, culture, and art. It’s named after the late Texas Governor Dolph Briscoe, Jr., and his wife, Janey. In fact, the governor’s desk, including a red hotline telephone, is exhibited. Lots of relics from the old west, from saddles to swords to Texas, Mexican, and Indian clothing and artifacts.

As a bonus, check out Mariachi Night at Hotel Contessa, apparently every Friday. (Call ahead to confirm) Mariachi Azteca de America, with its 11-member strings and vocals, was an outstanding reflection of the culture that is as pervasive as the river that is so treasured here. They are indeed the best in Texas, IMO.

The river snakes its way north of downtown, too, through the fascinating Pearl District, site of what once was the largest brewery in Texas. The transformation of the 19th-century brew house into the Hotel Emma proves that with a little shine (and a whole lot of money), it’s possible to turn old metal pipes, tanks and silos into an interesting, appealing luxury hotel. There are a slew of restaurants and shops, too. The Pearl is definitely worth checking out. South of the Riverwalk shops is Mission Reach, which is less commercial than the downtown River Walk. “The result is a serene, natural landscape where visitors can enjoy the inherent beauty of the river.” Remember to bring a water bottle, especially if you visit in the warmer months.

Whole Lotta Love on Valentine’s Day

As I headed one morning toward Mission Concepcion, one of San Antonio’s five missions, I noticed hundreds of people assembled in front of the Bexar Courthouse, half of them wearing wedding dresses. All of them were delightfully happy.

Why?
Because, for the last 36 years, Bexar County has made it easy to get married on Valentine’s Day at three “mass” weddings. Over 300 happy couples took advantage of the county’s annual gift to lovers who want to wed in a civil ceremony on February 14 – simply obtain a license in advance and register for one of the ceremonies, held at midnight, 10 a.m., and noon. I didn’t know any of the betrothed, but their bliss was contagious as soon as Clerk of Court Lucy Adame-Clark made it official.

Just a few yards away is Mission Concepcion, a Catholic Church founded in 1731. It is a National Historic Landmark and part of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park and a UNESCO World Heritage site

Just a few yards away from the mass wedding was glorious Mission Concepcion, a Catholic Church founded in 1731. It is a National Historic Landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are five missions. We made it to the Alamo and Concepcion, which means a return is necessary to check out the remaining three in Mission Reach, south of downtown.

The Rodeo!

The Texas Rodeo was in San Antonio when I visited, so we moseyed on down to the state fairgrounds, where we took in its sights, sounds, and smells – many smells. We don’t do much barrel racing and cattle roping in New Orleans, so it was cool to see Texans go at it. Here, if you have to see a man about a horse, better bring your wallet.

San Antonio is a fun city to get your steps in. And it was wonderful to be in a city that supports and preserves its culture.

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